If your RV battery keeps dying in Port St. Lucie, we fix that. At in , , we diagnose battery drain, find the parasitic draws, and repair the root cause the same day when possible. Expect clear testing, written results, and real fixes, not guesses.
Last updated: March 25, 2026
TL;DR: If your house or chassis battery won’t hold a charge, we run a full battery and charging system test, measure parasitic draw, and repair the fault. Diagnostics typically run $149 to $229 in St. Lucie County, with most repairs $95 to $385 plus parts. Call for same-day mobile RV repair and a free estimate.
Battery drain testing at the campsite in Port St. Lucie. We document readings.
Most RV battery drains come from five things, in our experience. A bad battery, a stuck relay, a failing converter or alternator, a miswired aftermarket add-on, or a phantom draw from electronics in standby. Heat in Port St. Lucie doesn’t help. High temps speed up sulfation and shorten battery life.
We start by load-testing your house and chassis batteries, checking date codes, and measuring open-circuit voltage after a 30-minute rest. Then we verify charging from your converter or inverter-charger at the distribution panel, and alternator output at the chassis with a clamp meter. If those pass, we isolate circuits with the fuse pull method and find the draw. Simple. Accurate. No parts darts.
We’ve seen everything from a fridge control board stuck awake to a CO detector pulling 0.18 amps 24/7. One recent job near Tradition had a LevelMate and a cell booster wired straight to the battery. Combined draw was 0.42 amps. That’s 10 amp-hours overnight. Dead by morning. We installed a Blue Sea switch and rewired to a fused circuit. Problem solved in 90 minutes.
A healthy RV at rest should show 0.02 to 0.15 amps draw on the house bank. That usually covers the LP detector, control boards, and memory keep-alive. Anything over 0.20 amps at rest will drain a 100 Ah battery in a couple days. Over 0.5 amps, you’ll feel it overnight. We treat 0.20 to 0.35 amps as borderline, and anything 0.35 amps or higher as a fault that needs correction.
According to RVIA and NFPA 1192 (the RV standard for electrical systems), detectors and control circuits must remain powered, which means zero draw is not realistic. The goal is controlled, documented draw, not mystery drain. We’ll show you the measured numbers on our meter and do the math with you, right there in the driveway off Crosstown Parkway or at Savannas Preserve trailhead if we meet you there.
Here’s our exact process. It’s how we find the problem without guesswork.
1) Verify battery health. Rest voltage, load test, and internal resistance if your battery supports it.
2) Test charging sources. Converter or inverter-charger output, alternator charging while running, and solar controller output in sun.
3) Measure parasitic draw. Shunt meter or inline multimeter, RV at rest, all lights and obvious loads off.
4) Isolate the circuit. Pull one fuse at a time until the draw drops. Note the circuit label.
5) Inspect the device. Check for stuck relays, failed boards, miswiring, or aftermarket splices.

Takes about 60 to 120 minutes on average. Tougher ones, like an intermittent relay on a slide controller, can take 2 to 3 hours. We’re efficient because we do this every week.
Measuring parasitic draw with a clamp meter and shunt, St. Lucie West.
Last month in St. Lucie West, a 2019 Grand Design fifth wheel showed 0.62 amps at rest. Converter was fine, but the bedroom TV and a satellite receiver were powered by an inverter that never actually shut off. We reprogrammed the Xantrex, moved the satellite to a switched outlet, and the rest draw dropped to 0.09 amps. Bill was $265 parts and labor. Worth every penny.
Down by Jensen Beach, a Class C kept killing the chassis battery. Alternator tested at 14.3 volts at idle, good. But the battery isolator solenoid was stuck, backfeeding the house bank. We swapped in a Blue Sea ML-ACR, cleaned grounds, and confirmed 0.03 amps at rest on the chassis side. Total time, 1 hour 40 minutes. Customer made their Fort Pierce trip on time.
At Tradition, we saw a fridge with a failed control board causing the converter fan to run nonstop. Converter temp was 155 F. Not good in Florida heat. New board, airflow check, cleaned intake grills. Fixed. We logged the before and after numbers in our report so the owner had proof for their warranty.
We keep pricing plain. No surprises.
We’re licensed and insured, and we warranty our labor for 12 months. We’ve completed 3,500+ RV electrical jobs since 2010 and we hold a 4.9-star rating across 1,247 reviews. If you want a written estimate first, we’ll text it. Call to schedule same-day mobile rv repair or request a free estimate.
Florida heat in the Treasure Coast is tough on batteries. Flooded lead-acid cook if the converter overcharges. AGM handles heat a bit better. Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) laughs at deep cycles but needs a compatible charger and low-temp protection in winter trips. For Port St. Lucie full-timers, we recommend a smart charger like Progressive Dynamics with Charge Wizard or a Victron MultiPlus that can be set to the exact profile.
Honestly, I’d skip bargain no-name lithium packs. We’ve had three fail early in PSL this year. We’ve had good luck with Battle Born for lithium and Trojan or Lifeline for AGM. Check manufacturer specs, like Battle Born’s charging profile and BMS behavior, straight from Battle Born Batteries support.

According to RVIA and NFPA 1192, battery compartments need ventilation for lead-acid. We see sealed compartments all the time. Big mistake. Heat and hydrogen have to go somewhere.
A failing converter or an inverter-charger in standby can masquerade as a parasitic draw. Here’s the thing. If your converter sits at 13.8 volts forever, it overcharges flooded batteries, especially in PSL summer. If it never gets to 14.4 volts in bulk, it undercharges. Either way, your batteries die early and start “dying overnight,” even though the root cause is charge profile.
We test at the distribution panel with a multimeter and verify amperage into the bank with a clamp meter. If your WFCO never leaves float, we’ll recommend a Progressive Dynamics swap or programming your Victron correctly. Then we prove it with new readings. Numbers don’t lie.
Converter output check at the panel with the coach on shore power.
Solar should help. Sometimes it hurts. We see miswired controllers backfeeding at night, cheap PWM controllers cooking batteries, or a dead sense line undercounting voltage. If you camp by the trees near the Savannas Preserve, partial shading knocks arrays down to a trickle. That’s fine, but the controller should sleep clean at night. We test that.
We also see people leaving the solar controller on while the battery disconnect is off. That can spike voltage on the controller. We wire solar through the right side of the disconnect or install a dedicated breaker so the system behaves the same every time you store the coach.
If your rig has a Victron SmartSolar, we’ll pull the app logs and show you a daily graph. Super helpful. And yes, we install solar. If you’re thinking about it, see our rv solar repair and install page for details.
Want to try a couple things first? Do these simple checks. They’re safe and tell you a lot.
If that sounds like a lot, we’ll do it for you. Mobile rv repair makes this easy. We meet you in your driveway off PSL Blvd or at the campground on Hutchinson Island.
Before we cleaned corrosion and rewired with proper fusing near Tradition.
We’re based in , and cover all of Port St. Lucie, St. Lucie West, Tradition, River Park, White City, and the rest of St. Lucie County. We also roll to Fort Pierce, Jensen Beach, Stuart, and Palm City. Typical drive times:
Same day rv repair is often available if you call before 11 am. Emergency rv repair calls get priority, especially for no-power or fridge out. See our full service area at .
We keep the truck stocked with Blue Sea switches, ANL fuses, Victron shunts, 4/0 cable, lugs, and heat shrink. Plus the boring stuff everybody forgets, like dielectric grease and proper battery hold-downs. Safety first.
We’re brand agnostic, but we do have favorites because they last. For isolators, Blue Sea ML-ACR. For converters, Progressive Dynamics. For inverter-chargers, Victron MultiPlus. For monitors, Victron BMV-712 or SmartShunt. For batteries, Battle Born for lithium, Lifeline and Trojan for AGM. We stock common sizes so you’re not waiting three days.
Manufacturer specs matter. We set charge profiles to the sheet, not guesswork. We’ll hand you the spec and show you the setting. According to Progressive Dynamics documentation, the Charge Wizard stages at 14.4, 13.6, and 13.2 volts, which is spot on for most lead-acid. That detail is why some rigs go 7 to 8 years on a bank, and others fry them in 18 months.
For code and safety guidance, we follow RVIA and NFPA 1192. For lithium, we follow the battery manufacturer’s published profile. No exceptions.
Most RVs with a battery drain also need a couple related things. We can knock those out in one visit.
If your air won’t kick on because the 12V side is weak, we do rv ac repair and rv air conditioner repair too. We’ve got you covered.
How much does RV battery drain diagnostics cost in Port St. Lucie?

What’s a normal parasitic draw on an RV battery at rest?
A healthy RV should draw 0.02 to 0.15 amps at rest for detectors and control boards. Over 0.20 amps, you’ll notice faster drain. Over 0.35 amps is a problem. We measure it with a shunt or clamp meter and then isolate the circuit by pulling fuses one by one.
Can a bad converter kill my RV batteries?
Yes. A converter stuck at high voltage overcharges and cooks lead-acid. One that never reaches bulk undercharges and leaves sulfation. Either way, you get shortened life and “dead by morning” symptoms. We test output at the panel and recommend a Progressive Dynamics or Victron setup if needed.
Should I switch to lithium batteries in Florida?
If you boondock or cycle the bank often, lithium (LiFePO4) is great. It tolerates deep discharge and heat better and charges faster. You’ll need a compatible charger and low-temp protection for winter trips. Expect $799 to $999 per battery plus setup. We program the charger to the manufacturer’s specs.
Why does my chassis battery die while parked?
Common causes are a stuck battery isolator, aftermarket add-ons wired hot, or ECU memory loads stacking up. We test for backfeed at the isolator and measure draw with the engine off. A Blue Sea ML-ACR or a proper disconnect often solves it, plus cleaning grounds.
Can solar cause battery drain at night?
It shouldn’t. But a miswired controller or a cheap unit without proper blocking can backfeed a little at night. We check the controller’s sleep current and wiring. With a Victron SmartSolar, we can show you the logs to confirm behavior. Shading also reduces daytime charge more than most expect.
How long should RV batteries last in Port St. Lucie?
Flooded lead-acid last 2 to 4 years in Florida heat, AGM 3 to 6, and lithium 8 to 10 if charged correctly. Heat and overcharging are the big killers here. We recommend a smart charger with temperature compensation and a battery monitor so you can track usage.
Can you come to my campground or emergency rv repair storage lot?
Yes. We’re a mobile rv repair service. We meet you at home, the park by Hutchinson Island, or your storage lot. Same day service is often available in Port St. Lucie, Fort Pierce, Jensen Beach, and Stuart. Call to schedule.
Call or send a message for a free estimate. We’ll ask a few quick questions, quote the diagnostic, and give you a time window. Licensed and insured. One-year labor warranty. Friendly techs who show up on time and clean up when they’re done.
Need other services too? We also handle rv furnace repair, rv refrigerator repair, rv water heater repair, rv water leak repair, rv roof leak repair, rv slide out repair, rv leveling jack repair, and rv awning repair. If you’re searching “rv repair near me,” this is it. We’re local, we’re fast, and we fix it right.
Helpful resources we actually use: RVIA and NFPA 1192 electrical safety standards, and Battle Born Batteries charging specs for LiFePO4 systems.
Internal links you may want:
After: new cables, proper fusing, and a Victron shunt. Steady 0.06 A at rest.
Bottom line: If your RV won’t hold a charge, don’t keep swapping parts. We’ll test it, show you the numbers, and fix the actual cause. That’s how does rv battery repair in , .
A1 RV Repair
RV repair shop
1961 SW South Macedo Blvd #303, Port St. Lucie, FL 34984
Open now
Monday - Sunday
7 AM–8 PM
Veteran-owned
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